Kumano Kodō
There are so many things I haven't done in Japan yet, so many places I'm still dying to go.
One glaring item on my list is the 熊野古道 (くまのこどう // Kumano Kodō). As a Japanese language nerd, first of all, that's just a cool name: "bear" (熊) "field" (野) "old" (古) "road" (道).
The Kumano Kodō is a series of ancient pilgrimage routes down on the 紀伊半島 (きいはんとう // Kii Hantō), this peninsula:
The word 半島 (はんとう) means "peninsula" in Japanese, so you'll also see this referred to as the Kii Peninsula. This word makes sense because, in a way, a "peninsula" is nothing more than a "half" (半) "island" (島), yeah? ^_^
Though I've never been (T_T), apparently most of this peninsula is dense temperate rainforest. Probably explains why it's so photo-friendly:
The trails of the Kumano Kodō have traditionally been used for pilgrimages to the 熊野三山 (くまのさんざん // Kumano Sanzan). Although this word literally means, "Three Kumano Mountains," it actually refers to the "Three Grand Shrines of Kumano," which are:
- 熊野本宮大社 (くまのほんぐうたいしゃ // Kumano Hongū Taisha)
- 熊野那智大社 (くまのなちたいしゃ // Kumano Nachi Taisha)
- 熊野速玉大社 (くまのはやたまたいしゃ // Kumano Hayatama Taisha)
(Don't worry if you can't read all of these place names. Place names always melt my brain, too. *_*)
The one I always see in photos is Kumano Nachi Taisha. It's pretty impressive:
(Photo taken from CNN Travel Article: "Kumano Kodo: Rewarding hike far off beaten path.")
Kumano Sanzan, along with Yoshino and Omine, as well as Koyasan, are all lumped together by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, by the way: Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.
UNESCO writes:
"Set in the dense forests of the Kii Mountains overlooking the Pacific Ocean, three sacred sites – Yoshino and Omine, Kumano Sanzan, Koyasan – linked by pilgrimage routes to the ancient capital cities of Nara and Kyoto, reflect the fusion of Shinto, rooted in the ancient tradition of nature worship in Japan, and Buddhism, which was introduced from China and the Korean Peninsula. The sites (506.4 ha) and their surrounding forest landscape reflect a persistent and extraordinarily well-documented tradition of sacred mountains over 1,200 years. The area, with its abundance of streams, rivers and waterfalls, is still part of the living culture of Japan and is much visited for ritual purposes and hiking, with up to 15 million visitors annually. Each of the three sites contains shrines, some of which were founded as early as the 9th century."
One issue with the Kumano Kodō is that there are several different routes that you can take.
Looking online, it's all a little bit confusing. I mean, look at this little map from the Kumano Tourism Bureau:
On their site, they give brief rundowns of four different paths you can follow:
1) Nakahechi | The Imperial Route to Kumano
"The Nakahechi pilgrimage route starts from Tanabe on the western coast of the Kii Peninsula and traverses east into the mountains towards the Kumano grand shrines. It is the most popular route for pilgrims from western Japan. Starting in the 10th century, the Nakahechi route was extensively used by the imperial family on pilgrimage from Kyoto. This trail has traditional lodgings in isolated villages along the way and is excellent for multi-day walks."
2) Kohechi | The Mountainous Route to Kumano
"The Kohechi route cuts through the center of the Kii Peninsula from north to south, linking the Buddhist temple complex of Koyasan and the Kumano Sanzan. It is characterized by steep trails that cross over three passes of over 1000 meters elevation along its 70 km length. The Kohechi is an isolated walk on its northern sections and hikers should be well prepared when attempting it."
3) Ohechi | The Coastal Route to Kumano
"The pilgrimage route runs south from Tanabe along the coast to Fudarakusan-ji Temple. The views from the well preserved passes offer expansive scenic vistas over the Pacific Ocean. During the Edo period (1603-1868), this route was used for both worship and sightseeing, and the beautiful landscape attracted many writers and artists."
4) Iseji | The Eastern Route to Kumano
"The Iseji route runs along the east coast of the Kii Peninsula between Ise-jingu Shrine and the Kumano Sanzan. The use of this trail rose dramatically in the Edo period (1603-1868) with the increasing number of pilgrims to the Ise-jingu Shrine. After paying homage in Ise, devotees would continue on the Iseji route to Kumano. To prevent erosion from heavy rains, extensive sections were paved with picturesque cobblestones. This route has a diversity of mountain passes, bamboo forests, terraced rice fields, and beaches."
If you explore their site a bit more, it appears that they sell an official guide book to the Kumano Kodō. Seems like it might be a worthwhile investment. You can buy it online or at the Kumano Travel Support Center, which is right by JR Kii-Tanabe Station.
Their site also has several maps that look like they would be very useful. And they appear to have some kind of reservation system for arranging lodging and whatnot.
If all of this sounds like too much work, you could also just pay a tour company to arrange all of your lodgings and tell you where to go. I saw a few advertising that they do so. Be prepared to pay well over $1,000, though.
Ah, I hope I can make this journey soon...
Useful Japanese
迷子になったらどうしよう...。
まいご に なったら どう しよう...。
What'll I do if I get lost?
Literally: “if (I) got lost (=lost child + に + if/when became) + what should (I) do (=how + let's do)...”
Note: This person is probably thinking this to himself/herself.
疲れた。ちょっと休憩しよう。
つかれた。 ちょっと きゅうけい しよう。
I’m tired. Let’s take a little break.
Literally: “got tired. + a little bit + rest / break + let’s do.”
温泉のある旅館に泊まりたいです。
おんせん の ある りょかん に とまりたい です。
I want to stay at a ryokan with an onsen.
Literally: “onsen (=hot spring) + の + there is / has + ryokan (=Japanese-style inn) + に + want to stay + です.”
Helpful Sites
English:
- Kumano Kodō (Wikipedia)
- Kumano Hongo Tourist Association: Kumano Kodō
- Wakayama Travel Guide: The Kumano Kodō Pilgrimage Routes (←Lots of cool photos.)
- Hiking the Kumano Kodō: Japan's ancient pilgrimage route (Lonely Planet)
- Kumano Kodō: Rewarding hike far off beaten path (CNN Travel)
- Kumano Kodō Pilgrimage Trails (Japan Guide)
Japanese:
- Recommended Courses
- Even More Course Options
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